今天在看到有人在詢問關於Fit Calculator不同模式的解說,想說剛好最近有爬過相關的文章,這篇文章有些內如其實並不是很容易懂,如果沒有正確的了解這些設定真正的目的,那麼量身設定的意義就有點被枉費了,所以不才今天花了點時間,將相關介紹簡單的翻譯成中文貼出來與大家分享,有錯誤還請指正喔~
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/pdf/fit_details.pdf
Each of the three styles of fit can be achieved on the same model bicycle, though perhaps not the same size or parts set up. Knowing how you want to ride will help determine what you want to ride.
1. The Competitive Fit.
It's called the Competitive Fit because it's our signature fit. We've found that this is the look and the feel that most of our customers expect out of their new bike. This is the most "aggressive" fit and suits those with an interest in racing, fast club riding, as well as those with a greater measure of body flexibility to work within the racer's comfort zones. Most modern road bikes, like the majority we offer at Competitive Cyclist, are usually pictured in sales catalogues with the Competitive Fit. But this doesn't mean that you should ride a bike that looks or fits like this.
Wanna look like a pro? This is the fit. It features a low, aerodynamic bar position that places slightly more weight on the hands than on the pedals and saddle, a close knee to pedal spindle ratio that emphasizes power and efficiency, and it puts the rider low in the handlebar drops. Typically the frame chosen will be the smallest that is appropriate. In fact, since the heyday of mountain bikes in the 1990s and more recent studies of professionals looking for an aerodynamic advantage, the Competitive Fit has become most bike shop's conventional wisdom.
After all, who doesn't want to look and ride like a pro? This fit is easy to sell but may not work for you since it actually best suits those who are willing to accept its clear emphasis on speed over comfort. For most of us, the pure Competitive Fit is too extreme even if it is still viable for young riders and racers, for those who love shorter, faster rides, and for those who just find this comfortable. Expect to be rather low even on the tops of the bars where you will spend the majority of your cruising time on the brake hoods, expect too to be lifting your neck slightly to see ahead of you with a rather "short and deep" reach into the bars as you push back on the saddle to stretch out.
The Competitive Fit creates a more compact body position with the chest low and the back as flat as is necessary to get down into the drops. The saddle to handlebar drop is sometimes as much 10cm or more.
2. The Eddy Fit.
Lots of folks find the Competitive Fit to be ideal. But for those who find its aerodynamic emphasis to be overly aggressive and uncomfortable, the Eddy Fit is almost certain to be ideal for you. It's a position that reminds us of the way Eddy Merckx looked on his bike in the early 1970s, and it dates from well before Eddy's time and continued in the pro peloton well into the 1980s.
There is nothing "dated" about this style of riding. We all know that Eddy, Bernard, and Guiseppe were all very, very fast riders! Bike design has not, in fact, changed that radically since their time---only the look, the fashion, and the style of riding. The Eddy Fit is simply no longer the "fashion" among pros who keep pressing the envelope of comfort to create more efficiency and power.
The Eddy Fit emphasizes less saddle to bar drop. You will notice less exposed seat post on traditional frames and a lower saddle to bar ratio on all fits, including compact designs. Typically it requires a size up of about 2-3cm in frame size from what is today usually offered by in current aero professional look of today. But make no mistake about it, this fit will get you down the road with speed, efficiency, and power.
A few differences from the Competitive Fit in addition to a taller front end and less saddle/bar drop is a less craned neck and easier forward-looking position, slightly less weight on the hands and more on the saddle and pedals, and a knee position that usually moves a bit behind the spindle (rather than a knee-over-the-spindle position, thus adding a bit of power). Bikes set up for the Eddy Fit change their look only subtly in comparison to the Competitive Fit though the results are dramatic in terms of greater comfort. This fit is easier on the neck and shoulders but no less suited for racing or fast solo or club riding.
We adjust this fit by "sizing up" the frame and adjusting the stem lengths to create proper balance, proportion, and to maximize the frame's potential. This position lets you into the drops with less stress on the neck and back and so encourages you to go low into the bars for longer periods. The Eddy Fit typically features a saddle/bar drop of only a few centimeters.
3. The French Fit.
This fit is so named because of its legacy in the traditions of endurance road riding such as brevet rides and randonneuring. However, the French Fit isn't merely about touring, riding long, or even sitting more upright. It is about getting the most out of a bike that fits larger and provides much more comfort to the neck, back, and saddle position.
While the Competitive Fit generally puts you on the smallest appropriate frame and the Eddy Fit sizes up a bit or raises the bars, the French Fit puts you on the largest appropriate frame. While this bucks some current conventional wisdom - and is, in fact, the least commonly used position of the three we espouse - it is still the position advocated by some of cycling's wisest and most experienced designers, who also happened to be riders who like to go fast and far with an ideal amount of comfort.
This fit features a taller front end (with a larger frame and/or head tube extension and stem), handlebar to saddle drops that are much closer to level, and favors riders who are looking to ease stress on the neck and back, ride as long and as far as they like, and are not concerned with the looking like an aggressive professional. In comparison to the Eddy Fit, the rider has even more weight rearward and a slightly more upright position such that "hands in the drops position" is close to the Competitive Fit's "hands on the hoods position." Some may say that this was not how modern race bikes were "meant" to fit but we have learned that the French Fit's size up tradition works great on the most modern bikes.
By increasing the frame size we raise the bars without radical riser stems and still create balance and proportion with respect to the important knee-to-pedal dynamic. It is important to remember that as frames get larger the top tube effectively shortens. This means that the longer top tube on a larger frame is appropriate because as the bars come "up" and the ratio of saddle to bar drop lessens, the rider achieves a "reach" from the saddle to the handlebars that is just right!
We recommend this fit for riders who really want to be comfortable and fast over longer distances. Please note that the French Fit disregards all emphasis on stand over height (standing with the bike between your legs and your shoes flat on the ground) because the French Fit school believes that this measurement has little actual value regarding fit. An ideal compromise for those who can't shed their concern regarding stand over height is the choice of a "sized up" compact design to achieve a higher relative handlebar position.
Nevertheless, a French Fit can work with traditional, non-sloping frames as well. As an example, a person who might ride a 55cm or 56cm frame to achieve the Competitive Fit, might ride as much as a 59cm or 60cm in the French Fit. While bikes in the French Fit are not the racer's fashion they tend to look elegant, well proportioned, and ride like a dream.
我以口語方式我簡單的翻譯一下而已,不是全照原文撰寫喔:
這三種不同風格的量身都可以符合市面上某些款式的單車,但不完全要按照一樣的規格去設定,而是要知道你要的是怎樣的騎乘感,他們可以幫助你完成你要的騎乘感。
1.競技設定:
之所以叫做競技設定是因為這是我們建議的設定,我們發現我們的客戶出的車輛大多是這樣做,它有十足的攻擊性,很適合競賽與俱樂部聯賽,經測量它有很好的身體伸展量,並且可在這個區域找到騎士的舒適區,多數的現代的單車,就像我們銷售的競賽用單車都是這樣做,並且在銷售目錄上的圖片也是使用這樣的量身法去設定,但是這並不代表你騎的單車就必須要像這樣設定。
想要看起來像專業騎士,就是這樣設定,特色就是低騎姿,計時把般的騎姿可以將更多的體重放到手上,膝蓋與踏板的比例強調出力與效率,它能夠促使騎士去使用下把位,車架也是建議選擇稍小的尺寸,事實上,在90年代登山車頂盛時期與近代的言教報告都把關鍵點放在空氣力學的優勢上,所以競技設定已成為多數單車店使用的方法。
這樣看來,誰不希望自己看起來與騎起來像個專業騎士?所以這樣設定的車最好賣,但不一定適合你,因為它適合那些重視速度大過於舒適度的人。對大多數人來說,純粹的競技設定過於極端,即使它對於年輕的騎士與職業車手而言是可最有可行性的，對於那些喜愛短程，快速騎乘的人，並為那些人就會覺得這個設定很舒適。若你是期望就算在上把位騎姿也是很低的人,與大部分的巡航騎乘時間都握在煞變把上的人,當然你也需要有心理準備你要一直舉高你的脖子來看路,而在這個設定中,選擇短而深(reach)的把型(我個人認為像FSA的新型小燕把就符合這個要求)將有助於你推把轉跨的動作(這個動作對於高落差設定的車來說真的很重要喔)。
競技設定的騎姿緊湊,胸部與背部必須放平,所以高落差是必須的。坐椅到把手的落差，有時高達10厘米以上。
2.Eddy的設定
很多人覺得競技設定很理想。但是，對於競技設定過於強調空氣動力學與過於攻擊性和不舒適感感到不適應,那麼Eddy的設定就是他們的理想選擇。這個設定是Eddy Marckx對於車輛設定的看法，這位單車好手稱霸公路車賽事的時間長達70年代到80年代之久(也是我喜歡的車手之一)。
在這股Eddy的風格裡,時間的流逝似乎是不存在的。我們都知道Eddy, Bernard, and Guiseppe 都是非常，非常快的選手(何只快,應該是偉大)！在他們的時代裡徹底的改變了一切---不僅是看起來,也連帶那時代的單車潮流與騎士的騎乘風格都深受他的影響。Eddy的設定原則其實很簡單,如何創造出舒適兼具良好的出力與效率。
Eddy的設定強調減少落差,你會發現在標準車架(包含壓縮車架)上,落差較小,一般來說這個設定會要求你選擇比標準大上2-3公分的車架,但是以今日注重空氣力學的角度來看,這樣的設定無疑會減低你的速度,效率與出力。
與競技設定相比有幾點不同,較低的落差與較舒適的頸部角度,且可將較多的體重比例分配給坐椅與踏板,以及膝蓋位置通常都會比踏板軸心位置後退一點點（而不是膝蓋超過踏板軸心,為了增加一點力量) 。競技設定與Eddy設定相比較,結果會有微妙的轉變,更舒適。與頸部和肩部比較容易適應，但不適合競賽與計時賽或俱樂部聯賽。
我們這裡調整的基礎是以“尺寸稍大”的車架為準，在去調整龍頭長度以達到最適當的平衡與比例，並合理的狀況下選擇最大限度的車架。這一立場下，您可以有較少的落差與減少頸部和背部的伸展，並且鼓勵你使用低把位長時間騎乘。Eddy設定適合一般騎乘,坐椅/把手的落差只有少許幾公分。
3.法式設定
這個設定命名是因為它深受公路耐力賽,如brevet rides與randonneuring,不過,法是設定不僅是有關旅行騎乘,長乘騎乘,甚至騎乘很長程的直線路程。這個設定是以限度內能獲得最大的車架為主要立場，可以提供更更舒適的頸部,背部,及坐姿。
雖然競技設定在正常範圍選擇最小的車架而Eddy設定則稍微加大了尺寸與提高了上把位，法式設定在讓正常範圍內選擇最大的車架。雖然這是傳統觀念的傳承-事實上，卻也是我們主張的三個設定方法中最不常用的設定-但是它仍然是一些騎單車界最有經驗與智慧的設計師所提倡的，希望騎士能夠快速和長距離的騎乘中一個理想的舒適設定。
這適合具有高車頭(包含長頭管或是就長的前叉上管),把手與坐墊的落差是非常接近水平的,有利於騎士尋找舒緩頸部和背部壓力的姿勢,這是長時間騎乘者喜歡的,而不是看起來有攻擊性的職業選手騎姿。與Eddy設定比較起來,騎士的重心更為後移和稍微直立,在這個設定的下把位高度可能才指示競技設定中的變把位高度而已 ”有些人可能會說,這不是現代的自行車比賽中有意義的設定,但我們必須學習了解到,法式設定產生的傳懂大尺寸單車在某些時候的實用性是超越最先進的比賽單車的。
增加車架大小與提高把手且沒有切短前叉上管與減少墊片,才能維持正常的坐艙長度,膝蓋到踏板的動態設定是很重要的。重點是要記住,隨著車架越來越大但坐艙長度仍然只能一樣長。這意味著,不影響坐艙長度下的大車架是正確的,因為可以使把手上升以減少落差,注意總座艙長度才識正確的觀念。
這個設定是給想要舒適與超長程騎乘的騎士,但是請注意:法式設定是不管立管高度的(就是跨在立管上雙腳著地那種姿勢),因為法式設定學說認為這個數據影響很小,且可以用壓縮車架來解決這問題。
當然,法式設定也適用於傳統水平車架,舉例來說,同一個人以競技設定算出來需要騎乘55到56公分的車架,換用法式設定可能須要換到59到60公分的車架,當然法式設定不是為了單車界的時尚而生,但是他們確實是追求一種優雅,人車比例適當且如夢幻般的騎乘感受(還真是法式浪漫呢,乾脆穿LANVIN西裝背LV騎好了)。
